Some hot news this week and God knows we need it after the recent weather we’ve been having.  While spring is just around the corner, it is still chilly enough for warming foods; stews, casseroles, mountains of mashed potatoes, rich gravies and so on.  Well just to mix things up a little why not try a few spices and the odd new ingredient which turns something ordinary into something exotic. 

The average Irish palate being used to a milder and blander type of taste, has taken some time to embrace eastern flavours.   Indian restaurants have opened all over the country in the past while and although not as prolific as Chinese restaurants, you will find at least one good Indian establishment holding its own in most places.  They have opened us up to new tastes and the Irish pioneers who first entered quickly found that there was so much more to Indian food than merely hot chilies.  Sadly we had been misled for many years by sandal wearing charlatans who thought that throwing a fistful of Schwartz Curry Powder and lentils into a pot of meat stew replicated an Indian dish.  The rest of us didn’t know any better and so blindly believing these ‘sophisticates’ we declared that “Indian food was a bit hot and not really to our liking”.  There are indeed very hot dishes available on most Indian menus, but there’s plenty more besides.  It’s like saying that the only thing we eat in Ireland is bacon and cabbage.  Indian food is highly varied and while as a country it has a history of mysticism, its food is not mysterious at all. 

India is highly populated and has many divides which impact the food culture. ‘Curry’ is an all purpose term devised by the English to cover the whole range of Indian food spicing.  The differences in food and traditions between Northern India and Southern India are quite distinct.  In the north much meat is eaten and cooking is often of the “Mughal” style which has a similarity to that of the Middle East and central Asia.  The emphasis is more on spices and less on curry heat. In the north more grains and breads are eaten and less rice while in the south, more rice is eaten and the dishes tend to be hotter.  Religion also plays a part.  Strict Hindus don’t eat beef as the cow is considered sacred while strict Muslims will not eat pork.  Therefore making a sweeping statement like, “Indian food is hot” does an ancient, food rich culture a great injustice and shows an extremely narrow viewpoint.

The good news for cooks is that Indian food is not about expensive cuts of meat.  It is about creating tasty dishes that combine meat, veg, pulses and spices that go a long way with little waste. I particularly love the way Indian food delivers vegetables. While I don’t deny that a lightly steamed Irish carrot can tempt the taste buds in its glorious simplicity, an Indian spiced and dressed dish of leafy green spinach can be a marvelous   meal in and of itself.  Talking of spinach, that brings me nicely onto the health benefits. 

Very creamy, calorie laden Chicken Korma can indeed be the nemesis of the dieter.  Go to any fat fighters meeting and the mere words ‘Chicken Korma’ will have them hoisting crosses and stringing garlic up around the room.    In some cases a two day food allowance can be tied up in one restaurant portion of Chicken Korma, Naan Bread and a half bottle of wine!  For the track suited brigade that pound Irish ring roads every evening, such a meal would require at least two laps and strike fear into their cholesterol free hearts.  Thankfully not every Indian dish is like that and many have great health benefits because of the spices.  Turmeric, one of the basics, has long been used worldwide as an antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial agent thanks to a chemical present in the spice called curcumin.  Curcumin’s medicinal properties are now also thought to protect liver and kidney function, ward off Alzheimer’s disease and even kill cancer cells.  Recent research from the Cork Cancer Research centre found that curcumin started to destroy some forms of throat cancer cells in the lab within 24 hours.  Meanwhile chilies are proven to raise the heart rate, increase perspiration and release endorphins due to capsaicin, the substance which gives chilies their heat. In pharmaceuticals capsaicin is commonly used as a painkiller to help manage arthritis, shingles pain and headaches.  Just like the research in Cork, American researchers at Cedars Sinai Medical Centre discovered that capsaicin killed off prostate cancer cells in the laboratory.  The pepper component also dilates the blood vessels, increasing blood circulation and reducing blood pressure.  Ginger is traditionally used to help digestion and reduce inflammation, as the root helps neutralise stomach acid. It’s effective at reducing nausea and may also reduce cholesterol and blood clotting.  Garlic contains the chemical allicin which works to dilate the blood vessels and lessen the chance of blood clots, thereby reducing the risk of thrombosis.  Sadly, to have a fully positive effect on one’s health, two to three cloves should be consumed daily, which admittedly might be a bit much for spouses and co workers.  You might end up in rude health but you risk loosing some friends in the process.  Of course the health benefits are just an added bonus, the real benefit is the taste.   I encourage you to try cooking some Indian this week and remember that adding curry powder and lentils to a pot of meat does not a curry make!  Take the time to do it properly and your taste buds will joyously reap the rewards.

Chicken Terriyaki

 Ingredients: 

• 2 pieces free range chicken breast, sliced

• A little Vegetable oil

• A little Flour

• A little Grated ginger

• 2tbsp Sake (rice wine)

• 4 tbsp dark soy sauce

• Sugar as per taste

• Mixed Green Salad  

Method: 

• Mix sake, soy sauce and sugar in a bowl to make teri-yaki sauce. 

• Smear the chicken with flour. 

• Heat a little oil in a frying pan. 

• Sauté chicken on both sides to a golden finish and remove chicken from the pan. 

• Remove the left over oil from the pan. 

• Pour teri-yaki sauce into the pan and heat up to boil. 

• Simmer chicken well in the pan again on both sides and turn off the heat. 

• Add grated ginger to garnish. 

• Serve with salads. 

I was delighted to see that the Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, Co. Waterford has just received a much coveted Michelin star.  The Michelin Guide has been in the business of evaluating and recommending restaurants and hotels for over a century, and there are a few things that have distinguished it as a most prestigious award. Firstly the Michelin inspectors anonymously visit restaurants and hotels.  There is no fanfare about their visit or the opportunity for the establishment to put on a special show for their benefit. Myth would have it that Michelin inspectors are sworn to secrecy, even to their own families! They also visit several times so that the judging criteria include marks for consistency, which happens to be one of my own biggest peeves with restaurants.  You go to a restaurant and have good food and service and then you either recommend it to someone or you make a return visit yourself to find that it’s not the same due to a different chef or a change in waiting staff.  With a Michelin star rated restaurant consistency is king.  Finally my favourite part of the Michelin ethos is that you can lose a star as well as earning one.  This gives great incentive to any establishment to keep the standards up.  Let’s face it no one likes to end up on the naughty step.  You can receive a one, two or three star Michelin rating, but all are given very sparingly.  A one star is given for a very, very good restaurant in its category.  Two stars mean, “excellent cooking, worth a detour” and three stars, which is relatively unheard of says “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.”  There are only about 85 restaurants in the whole world that actually have three Michelin stars.

The Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore is well within driving distance from Tipperary and they have a bar food menu as well as a dinner menu, making it a lovely place for lunch.  Indeed if Michelin stars were handed out for location and decor alone The Cliff House Hotel would have scooped one on opening.  The entire building is sewn into the cliff face and sitting outside gives the impression of being on deck of a cruise liner.  The beautiful view alone is worth the trip. 

So what is it about the food at the Cliff House Hotel?  The head chef is Dutch native Martijn Kajuiter.  Martijn has previously worked under world class chefs such as Marco Pierre White, Michel Roux and Pierre Kauffman.  He proudly boasts that all produce used at the Cliff House is local and comes from within a thirty mile radius of the hotel but he takes it and then offers unusual combinations of flavours.  For example on the dinner menu you could choose a dish simply called ‘Local Lamb’ which sounds pretty basic until you read the description underneath:  Rump, Sweetbreads, Kidney Pie, Taggiasche Olives, Wild Spinach and Mushroom Cannelloni, Lamb Jus.  That’s definitely more than a slice of lamb and some veg.  Equally the dessert menu often features ‘Dark Chocolate 70%’, which is Mousse, Caramelized, Olive Oil, Semi Freddo, Maldon Sea Salt, Pistachio Ice Cream or how about a ‘Whiskey Baba’; Prunes, Earl Grey Tea, Salted Whiskey Caramel, Double Vanilla Ice Cream.  It would appear that Martijn’s gift is combining flavours, textures and tastes and ordinary local produce is transformed into something glamourous and unexpected.

While you may not be able to get to the Cliff House there is a cook book of the same name available.  While you can’t buy Martijn Kajuter’s years and years of experience you will be pleased to learn that you can, pretty much, buy all the ingredients for his recipes in the book pretty readily.  Most of the recipes are very accessible and thankfully there are no seaweeds imported from Japan or rare produce from some other far flung region; it’s all local. 

Finally, talking of good Cookbooks I received Roly’s Café and Bakery book by Paul Cartwright and Paulo Tullio as a Christmas gift.  I finally got around to cooking a few things from it and I can highly recommend it as a good working manual.  Vibrant salads, fantastic main courses, delicious desserts and some good home baking make it a good all round cook book if you want to do something fancy.  I cooked a birthday lunch from it for a friend, starter, main course and dessert and I was astounded that by just following the simply laid out recipes, the dishes actually resembled the accompanying pictures in the book and tasted equally good.  Again I would have to say that the key is, as always, good ingredients; a rule that you just cannot get away from.  With the best ingredients you often have to do very little with them to fool everyone into thinking you are a great cook.  In fact there is a very famous restaurant in California called Chez Panisse which was founded in 1971 by a lady called Alice Waters.  The main premise of the restaurant has never changed; it is a set menu but one that changes every night.  The ethos is that the best tasting food is organic and locally grown.  To that end they once famously served a peach for dessert.  It was just a peach on a plate, not cut, not sliced, just a peach.  The message; it was perfect as it was and nothing they could do would make it any better. 

While we all love the sophisticated and the glamourous, when it comes down to it you just can’t beat the simplicity of good food that is reared or grown with care and passion.  We are very fortunate to boast such local foods in Tipperary and neighbouring counties but it is up to us all to support such local food and ensure that it is there for future generations.

Try our recipe this week and order your corned beef online. www.jameswhelanbutchers.com

To Cook

I’ve always been very fond of Scotland.  Perhaps it’s because the place and the people have a great deal in common with Ireland and so it just feels familiar.  While the stereotypes and the jokes would have us believe that every Scot has short arms and very long pockets, I’ve always found them to be a warm, generous bunch and truly hospitable. 

Scotland has proudly contributed such culinary delights as Scotch broth, Scotch whiskey, the Scotch egg and of course Haggis, the “Chieftain of puddings”, to quote poet Robert Burns.  They also gave us, and I say it with a whisper, the deep fried Mars Bar.  Oh yes, to the deep fried food devotee this sort of naughtiness elevates the deep fryer to a machine with an unprecedented level of badness when it comes to producing calorific food.  If you hadn’t heard of such a phenomenon I can tell you that it caused quite a stir when this dirty little Scottish secret came to light.  Needless to remark the food police were outraged at the idea of taking a high calorie snack, dipping it in batter and then deep frying it. (If you heard a loud thud it was all the nutritionists dropping in shock at the very thought of it.)   If, as an ordinary piece of confectionary, the Mars Bar is a naughty French maid showing off her stocking tops in a Carry On film, then battered and deep fried she is practically naked but for small pieces of very expensive underwear and six inch stilettos and very definitely confined to the top shelf!  The lovely Ms Lawson, being the very naughty minx that she is, took the idea but substituted a Bounty bar instead.  Nigella, perhaps, lent a little bit of class to such culinary filth, but it is still a mucky, mucky pleasure.  Such flagrant disregard for calorie content makes Elvis Presley’s infamous fried peanut butter sandwich look like a lunch recommended by Weight Watchers!

Anyway, I always think of Scotland in January as they have two of the finest celebrations around this time.  While the rest of the world celebrates New Year’s Eve, Scotland enjoys Hogmanay and it is nothing short of riotous.  Then on January 25^th they celebrate Burns’ Night, about which I knew little until I was invited to such a celebration a few years ago here in Ireland.   To be perfectly honest on my first Burns’ Night I was a reluctant reveller.  With Robert Burns being a poet I anticipated a refined, arty affair that would leave me cold.  I couldn’t have been more wrong.  I subsequently found out that Burns was known as the Ploughman Poet being from a poor farming background.  While he was very well read and literate his other main study interests were women and whisky!  Needless to remark both featured heavily in his work.  He lived a large, colourful life, was father to many illegitimate children before he married, received huge popularity and fame for his songs and his poetry, but never found fortune in writing.  He was incredibly prolific and died at the age of 37 leaving behind a fabulous legacy of work that is still popular today.  January 25^th is the anniversary of his birth and no Burns’ evening is complete without great company, fantastic food, plenty of whiskey and witty recitals of Burns’ works.  Indeed Burns’ Night is something you could well imagine Robert Burns himself enjoying immensely.  In Scotland Burns’ nights range from wonderfully formal affairs with many courses to small intimate casual suppers and buffets, but the theme is always poems and songs shared with good friends, great food and a few drinks. (Sadly, despite the fact that Ireland boasts some of the world’s best and most prominent literary figures we have nothing to compare to it.  Maybe it’s time we started one.)

My first Burns’ Night included my first brush with haggis.  Of course I had heard about it for years but never tasted it.  As a butcher I am not at all squeamish or offended by offal, which is just as well as haggis is a combination of sheep’s offal. The windpipe, lungs, heart and liver of the sheep are boiled together and then minced. This is mixed with beef suet and lightly toasted oatmeal. The mixture is placed inside the sheep’s stomach and sewn closed. The resulting haggis is traditionally cooked by further boiling for anything up to three hours.  Commercially prepared haggises tend to use other casings than sheep stomachs.  When cooked it doesn’t look too unlike a dark white pudding, but with a slightly crumblier texture.  The haggis I had was gloriously rich and tasty and was served with mashed carrot and parsnip and some cheesy, garlic potatoes.  It was divine although my Scottish hostess was severely ribbed by the other Scots for being too pretentious with her Potato Dauphinoise.  Not being Scottish I thought it was a great, hearty combination that all worked tremendously well together. 

Haggis is a pudding, but never really took off here like black and white pudding, which the Irish do rather well.   Recently, Inch House here in Tipperary and a member of the Tipperary Food Producers Network launched a gluten free pudding which is good news for the growing number of coeliacs in the country. This particular pudding is probably the closest to the Scottish square sausage recipe that we have available here in Ireland. It is quite amazing the difference in texture and taste when this particular product is roasted in the oven as opposed to fried in the pan. In a blind test I’d swear they were different products.  I am delighted to say that James Whelan Butcher’s, have Inch House Pudding instore.

 While black and white pudding is still very popular I do think that we often put it in a particular category of foods and fail to recognise its adaptability.  It is much more versatile than we assume.  It works very well in certain salads and starters but can also be a quirky addition to many main courses; all it takes is a little imagination.  Try doing something different with pudding this week.  There are several varieties available but I would advise a good artisan pudding if you want to really enjoy great flavour.  If you come up with anything unusual let me know.

I welcome your feed back to pat@jwb.ie

 Bacon, Black Pudding and Goat’s Cheese Pizza 

        Ingredients

• 1 ready prepared pizza base
• 1 tablesp. passata – sieved tomato, or 2-3 sliced tomatoes
• 2-3 slices Quality Assured streaky Bacon, diced and cooked
• 2-3 slices of Inch House black pudding, cooked and crumbled
• 50g (2 oz) goat’s cheese, cut into small pieces
•  A few sprigs of thyme

 Set oven to the maximum. Spread the tomato mixture or sliced tomatoes over the base. Sprinkle on the bacon and black pudding, then the cheese and thyme. Bake for 10-15 minutes until crisp and the cheese has melted. Delicious

It really is amazing how the simplest of ideas are so often the best and once they arrive we all wonder why nobody thought of it before.  When it comes to things culinary we expect new ideas from chefs, celebrity chefs or just plain celebrities fronting a chef’s idea.  Did George Foreman really invent the health grill (Lean Mean Grilling Machine) or was it somebody else’s idea and he just stuck his name on it.  Did Jamie Oliver really create that range of pots and pans with Tefal or how about Anthony Worrall Thompson who has a great deal going with Breville appliances?  Even Gordon Ramsay is in on the act with the Bamix hand blender.  Anyway all my cynicism was blown out of the water by two ordinary women who have come up with a sterling idea and are about to become the next big thing in celebrity cooking.

The story starts with two ordinary Australian mothers, Rachael Bermingham and Kim McCosker, who were best friends since kindergarten.  One was very successful in marketing and the other had a degree in finance and Japanese.  Both are 39 years old, have young children, husbands and busy careers and so as their lives paralleled quite a lot they also encountered the same difficulties.  One of those enduring problems was the universal late afternoon cry of working mothers everywhere, “What the hell will I get for the dinner”.  I know that many, many people, if they are in charge of the cooking, can relate to this, particularly if they are also holding down a day job.  Even the most organised who batch cook at weekends get caught out now and again.  What these two ladies came up with was a book simply entitled 4 Ingredients.  It is a cookery book that has become the biggest publishing phenomenon in Australia and is about to take the rest of the world by storm. Obviously the title reveals the premise behind the book.  Every recipe fits the criteria of simple, healthy and just 4 ingredients.   

When they first came up with the idea because they weren’t celebrities or even chefs for that matter, they were turned down by every publisher they approached.  They decided to self publish and two and half years later they had sold a staggering 2.5 million copies.  Needless to remark the publishers soon took notice and now the girls have gone global.  These two women are now responsible for the biggest Australian title in publishing history and naturally that led to TV programmes  and all the usual spin offs.    

The recipes in the book were all collected from family and friends and according to all reports they demonstrate how you can save time and money in the kitchen and still have tasty, nutritional food that is fun to make.  They claim that they have taken the hardship from cooking and returned it to a simple, fun and therapeutic daily exercise rather than the stressful ordeal that some people consider.  Less is more is definitely the ethos and with simplicity at its core, it is not surprising that they have very quickly established an empire.  They are now on their third book in Australia, they have the obligatory TV show that accompanies it and they have just launched a range of cookware.  Naturally they have a website with lots of little cooking videos that you can watch and they’ve also developed a special software application for the iPhone that offers a selection of recipes for any ingredients you might have in your cupboard.  You can check them out on 4ingredients.com. 

I’m all for simplicity and as it is the beginning of a new year there couldn’t be a better time to embrace such a philosophy.  I certainly think these leaner times call for greater clarity and stripping back and so this ethos of four ingredients really appeals to me.  Of course like everything, while these two Australian ladies have been at the forefront of this movement, using just 4 ingredients is the basic idea and you don’t have to necessarily buy these books to take advantage of the concept, although they are available here.  There are plenty of recipes freely available on line that also use only four, and sometimes even less, ingredients.  If you think about it you probably have some of your own that only use four ingredients.  I firmly believe that dinner time should be a time when the family comes together.  I believe that in sharing food we can more naturally share other details of the day.  Meal times are often the only real quality time left for a family during the busy weekday schedule particularly.  A recent study said there were huge emotional benefits for the family who sat down together at least once a day.  It was at this time that problems as well as excitement or achievements were expressed and discussed.  So after the excesses of December, January is the perfect month for a clean sweep, a fresh start and baby steps toward a simpler life.  Happy New Year 

I welcome your feedback at pat@jwb.ie

The Classic French Omelette 

Ingredients

• 3 Quality Assured Eggs
• 3 teasp. water
• ½ tablesp. fresh herbs, chopped
• Salt and black pepper
• Knob of butter

Filling 

• A little butter
• 25g (1 oz) Quality Assured Bacon, diced
• 25g (1 oz) oyster or button mushrooms, chopped
• 25g (1 oz) Farmhouse Cheese, grated

Alternative Filling: 

• Chopped tomatoes, basil, scallions

To Cook

Prepare the Filling

Step 1. A non-stick omelette pan is essential. Beat the eggs, water, herbs and seasoning together. Heat the pan well, add the butter, pour in the egg mixture. Work quickly, drawing the egg to the centre of the pan as it begins to set. This allows the uncooked mixture to reach the base of the pan. Continue until you have the omelette cooked to your liking. 

Step 2. Place the filling along the centre of the omelette. Starting at the handle, fold over the omelette by 1/3.Slide the omelette down the pan. 

Step 3. Then, with your hand under the handle, tip the omelette onto a warm plate, making the third fold. Sprinkle with finely grated regato cheese (optional) and serve with mixed salad leaves.

There’s nothing like the pressure and stress of Christmas Day cooking to provide opportunity for calamity.  We want to impress, we look forward to the glory and praise for our culinary prowess but we’re aware that all the shops and restaurants are closed and you get one shot at cooking the turkey.  Having lived through more Christmases now than I care to reveal, I can assure you that the food, good or bad, actually doesn’t make or break Christmas!  It’s our attitude to each and every situation that makes the difference.  My other pearl of outstanding wisdom is this, keep it simple.  A teenage son of a friend of mine informed me recently that using capital letters in texts or emails is, in this modern technological world, considered as shouting.  I’ll say it once more only louder, KEEP IT SIMPLE.  Your capacity for food does not increase purely because it is the 25^th of December.  While it is fabulous to have a large and varied choice of food for the plate, please ask yourself what is really necessary?  Of course it’s important to celebrate at Christmas, but if you keep the food simple, tasty and nourishing then a jolly, convivial atmosphere with happy people will make it taste sublime.  On the other hand restaurant standard food served by a tired, grumpy, ball of stress will mean a miserable time for all.  At a happy table beans on toast is as good as caviar.

I’ve heard it all in my game.  I’ve seen the organised come in and collect turkeys in plenty of time, only to have the ‘new puppy’ think it was a toy when their back was turned just before it went in the oven on Christmas morning.  I’ve had people tell me after Christmas that they forgot to take the turkey out of the freezer in time and ended up having Christmas Dinner on Stephen’s Day.  There was a great story from a woman who was cooking goose one year.  She was using a large old pan belonging to her mother but during the cooking process a hole developed in the base of it, the juices ran on to the floor of the oven and eventually caught fire!  Fortunately the fire was quickly contained but it smoked the entire house out and all the windows and doors had to be opened on a particularly cold Christmas Day.  The entire family had to bundle themselves up in coats and scarves for several hours to let the fresh air in.  And what about people who are left without power on December 25^th?  Storm damage a few years ago caused this problem for many and strangely, rather than destroying Christmas, in some cases it brought people and communities together.  I know of one street in Waterford where the electricity was out but one house had a solid fuel cooker.  All the neigbours brought a bottle, a chair, some food, cutlery and a plate.  They crowded in and by candlelight, bread was broken and much laughter ensued.  It was a simple meal of turkey, gravy and veg.  There were no fancy arrangements on plates, there was no tinkering with blobs of ‘jus’ drizzled artistically over artichokes or any other such nonsense and yet it’s a Christmas that is still talked about fondly to this day.

Christmas is about warmth, family, friends and love.  Don’t overcomplicate it by thinking it is about anything more than that.  It’s certainly not about presents or toys.  However we probably want to make it as special as we can and even the best chefs in the world encounter some problems.  To that end here are some easy solutions to some of the more common mistakes.  Indeed sometimes the greatest tastes come from mistakes.  A friend was attempting to make delicious fudge which refused to thicken.  Instead she poured the liquid mixture over bowls of vanilla ice cream and was hailed a genius by all present.  Everyone assumed she had wanted to make fudge sauce. 

Always have a strainer handy.  Lumpy gravy or lumpy custard, strain it through the mesh. Have you had tasteless, bland vegetables?  At Christmas there’s always a lemon or two floating around. (We have great intentions of chopping it into slices and having it ready to serve with the gin and tonics, but the gin is long gone by the time we remember the lemon!)  Squeezing a little lemon juice over a pan of greens is a great way to instantly flavour them.  It saves on a few calories as well as most people think that smothering them in butter is the only answer.

If the turkey does turn out too dry, well then it’s your own fault for not getting it at James Whelan Butchers!!  I’m joking of course.  Dry turkey can be the result of many different things or a combination of a few.  Poor basting, over cooking, cooking too fast, not giving it enough time to rest or simply not having a great quality bird to begin with. If you do carve and find you have something rather leathery and not very moist here’s a solution; using the juices from the pan make a gravy.  Slice enough turkey to go around and lay the slices in a casserole dish.  Pour over the gravy and leave to marinate for as long as possible then pop the whole dish into a moderate oven for about 10 minutes before serving.  When you take the slices from the bubbling juice they will be perfectly acceptable.

Lumpy mashed potato is never good.  Again, pass it through it a strainer.  Another tip is to warm the milk before adding it to the spuds before mashing.  (A smidgen of nutmeg in the warmed milk will make it even better!)  Salty soup is a common problem.  A quick method is to put a sliced raw potato into the soup.  Once the potato becomes translucent you can take it out and the salty taste will disappear.

My biggest tip is that you should, at all times, keep your cool and a sense of humor handy.  Any and all disasters can be salvaged.  Even if the entire dinner is unpalatable there’s bound to be a bottle of wine and a selection box that will get you through the day.  Remember love and laughter is what it’s really all about.  HAPPY CHRISTMAS  

Ice Cream Pudding 

Ingredients

• 100g granulated sugar
• 125ml water
• 4 egg yolks
• 500ml cream
• 1teasp.vanilla essence
• 500g dried mixed fruit e.g. raisins, currants, sultanas, figs, apricots (soaked overnight in port)
• 100g toasted almond, chopped

To Cook

Preparation time

30 Mins plus freezing 

Method

Put sugar and water into a pan.  Dissolve the sugar over a gentle heat.  Then boil steadily unitl it forms a syrup.  Beat the egg yolks well, then carefully pour the syrup on to them.  Continue to whisk to a thick, mousse-like mixture.

Whip the cream.  Fold the cream and vanilla esence into the mousse with the fruit and nuts.  Pour into a pudding bowl and freeze.

Possibly the most glorious thing about having an interest in food and cooking is that you will never exhaust the endless combinations of ingredients and methods available to you.  The only limitation is your own imagination.  We create our own mental boundaries by allowing our preconceived notions to direct us. We inherited many of these ideas from the cooks we grew up with and while many are right, some were folly at the time and have just served to build a fence around our own thoughts on a subject.   I guarantee that most people reading the title of this article will have conjured up thoughts of stews and soups.  While both are important to one pot cooking, and there are many variations, we tend to forget that the one pot genre covers other single vessels such as woks and frying pans, roasting tins, casseroles and pie dishes.  Once you start expanding the idea of the vessel itself a whole new world opens up to you.  Now we can also eliminate the idea that all OP (one pot) efforts have to be slow cooked.  I love slow cooking for a number of reasons, but particularly for the build up of wonderful aromas throughout the house as the meal draws closer.  I love it when my taste buds are literally going wild with anticipation and, sure enough, that first mouthful inevitably produces a pleasure explosion that is hard to beat.  But of course not everything done OP style needs to be slow cooked.  Stir fry’s and risottos are very quick and tasty.

There are many great benefits to OP cooking.  Obviously the washing up is at a minimum and that’s a huge plus factor.  It is the perfect style for people with limited kitchen space.  It is a great way of retaining all the vitamins and minerals from the food you are cooking as they all mingle with the juices in the pot and you will also find that you tend not to need a lot of fat or oil.  You only have to keep an eye on one pot and therefore you avoid the crazy mental arithmetic of working out the order in which to cook separate ingredients for a meal.  That certainly reduces the anxiety when you are having people around to eat.  Equally it is easy to transport should you be the one cooking a dish and bringing it with you.  If you are time pressed you can usually prepare a hearty OP meal in advance and either leave it to slow cook for hours or reheat as necessary. Finally it is a very flexible idea where most recipes can be adjusted to the ingredients you have available.  Every country in the world has its own variations on OP cooking.  We are known for our stews, the French have wonderful rustic Chicken versions, the Italians are known for Osso Bucco or vats of meat sauce, the Germans love Pork varieties and of course, the Asian nations are known for their spicy stir fries and flavoursome curries; all One Pot wonders.

Obviously any single vessel can be used and considered.  A particular favourite of mine would have to be Italian Style Roast chicken done in a plain old roasting tin.  Along with roasting the bird and a few spuds, the Italians also cook all the other vegetables in the same dish at the same time.  Peppers, thinly sliced courgettes, rosemary and garlic bulbs keep the feta cheese and sun dried tomato crumbed chicken and sliced new potatoes company, as they all bake together.  When it comes from the oven it is a sight to behold and the aromas and flavours are even better.  However, if you haven’t already done it, I would encourage you to invest in one decent cast iron pot or, as they are commonly known, a Dutch oven.  Yes they are without a doubt expensive to buy but the good ones are a lifetime job.  A friend of mine is still using one that her mother received as a wedding present!  Christmas is coming and you should put one on your list or wait for the traditional post Christmas sales to invest.  They are called Dutch ovens because heavy cast iron pots were manufactured in the Netherlands as early as the 1600s where braising had been discovered as a good way to cook tougher meats.  Wild boar and moose would be slow cooked for hours as the tough fibres were rendered tender and full of flavor.  With the Dutch oven Europeans then began adding vegetables, spices and herbs from their own regions and so distinctive national signature dishes emerged.   These pots have good tight fitting lids that retain the moisture in a dish, but the main advantage is that cast iron conducts and retains heat exceptionally well so food cooks evenly either on the hob or in the oven.  These days they also come in so many great colors that they can be taken straight to the dining table and still look good.  It is definitely an investment that you won’t regret.  Do not foolishly buy a cheap imitation as it is false economy.  Just save up for the real thing and it will save you money in the long run. 

This time of year is ideal for one pot cooking.  We are all busy with little time for fancy cooking and the weather usually demands comfort food on these darker evenings; beef in beer with herb dumplings, steaming risottos or hearty goulashes.  And of course one to remember for the end of the year, the turkey variations: orange turkey with rice, stir fried turkey with cranberry glaze, Italian turkey steaks, all one pot dishes.  Fish also works really well in one pot, from fish stews, tagines and chowders, prawns with coconut rice or how about a big pot of tasty mussels served simply with some garlic bread. The combinations are endless.

Finally I cannot talk about one pot cooking without mentioning dessert.  (You see, you hadn’t even considered it!)  Cobblers, crumbles, chocolate fondues, rice pudding, bread and butter pudding are all cooked in just one vessel.  Imagine a triumphant family meal with main course and dessert and just two cooking dishes to wash up afterwards?  It’s a very attractive proposition.  We live in a world that likes to complicate things and convince us that simple is lazy or perhaps boring.  Not true I tell you, there are fabulous taste experiences to be thoroughly enjoyed in the simplicity of just one pot.  Try it for yourself this week.

I welcome your feedback to pat@jwb.ie

Rum and raisin bread and butter pudding

40 minutes

Ingredients (serves 4)

• olive oil cooking spray
• 1/3 cup caster sugar
• 3 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla essence
• 1 orange, rind finely grated
• 1 tablespoon rum
• 1 3/4 cups white milk
• 5 slices raisin bread, halved diagonally
• 1 tablespoon pure icing sugar
• 4 scoops ice-cream and 250g sliced strawberries, to serve

Method

1. Lightly spray a 5cm deep, 20cm (base), 5-cup capacity baking dish with oil.
2. Place sugar and eggs in a bowl. Beat with a fork until pale. Add vanilla, orange rind, rum and milk. Beat until well combined.
3. Arrange bread in dish, overlapping slices. Pour over egg mixture. Stand for 20 minutes.
4. Preheat oven to 170°C. Place pudding on a baking tray. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until set. Dust with icing sugar and serve with ice-cream and strawberries.

If there’s one thing that drives me crazy at this time of year it is the continuous stream of articles claiming that by adhering to their wisdom Christmas will be made easy.  Look, Christmas inevitably comes with a certain amount of expectation.  We are all sold this cosy, warm, tinselly Hollywood ideal of what Christmas should be.  In light of such potent imagery, should any of us mere mortals fall a fairy light short of the film magic, then we feel we have failed and we promise to do better the following year, just adding to the pressure and expectation.  The first thing we have to do is debunk this myth of the perfect Christmas.  Only in fiction does such a thing exist.  The reality is that a ‘perfect Christmas’ is different for everyone.  Some people would regard it as a quiet, no fuss, low key affair where they get a few days off to relax after a tiring year.  Others couldn’t imagine anything worse than quietness and happily anticipate an oversized tree and a bustling, noisy house, full of family and guests.  Others still, see it as a happy never ending round of visiting and visitors where bucket loads of nibbles and impromptu meals are rustled up.  All different views, all right in their own way, but none of them perfect. 

The second untruth I wish to push of the side of the cliff is the fact that any or all of this could ever be ‘easy’.  Of course it’s not easy. It is only ever easy for those purely on the receiving end of the hospitality.  For the souls doing the actual work of creating the event, it takes time, effort and money to make sure the whole thing goes off well and everyone has a good time.  What we should be aiming for is a way of making the difficult challenge of Christmas cooking and entertaining an enjoyable and rewarding experience rather than an ulcer inducing stress fest.  I will concede that doing something with calm, confident, efficiency gives an illusion of ‘easy’, but you just can’t avoid the actual work.  The information I am about to impart is not about my attempt to take away the labour involved in Christmas, but simply to encourage everyone to go about it in an enjoyable way that should change your festive outlook forever and make it a much more joyful one.

A teacher at school drilled into us the five ‘Ps’ of life; “Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance”.  Our eyes would roll and we would silently and mockingly mouth the words of this mantra as he would belt it out, rhythmically stressing the P sounds.  A sloppy essay, forgetting your homework, misplacing a book or having no gym gear would instantly invoke the five P’s.  It was the answer to all organisational downfalls.  I have largely forgotten everything he ever taught us, but the five Ps have been indelibly tattooed on my brain.  To this day if something goes wrong the first thing I look for is if, perhaps, I didn’t apply the knowledge.  Of course sometimes disasters are unavoidable, but I can tell you that more often than not investigation proves that failure to invoke the five Ps was at the heart of it all. 

With that in mind let’s look at the ways we could properly plan for Christmas.  First of all take some time and just sit and think about it.  Do not rush this part of the process and use the time to visualise the whole thing.  You should be asking questions like how many am I feeding and over how many days?  How much of it has to be formal and how much relatively informal?  Is there a possibility of unexpected guests or impromptu gatherings?  What about family likes and dislikes or allergies?  The great thing about this sort of planning is that, believe it or not, it can actually save you money.  Many people overbuy at Christmas, feverishly shopping at the last minute with that siege mentality.  You are shopping for the three days (a week at most) of Christmas and not a 6 month lock down in an underground bunker.  The shops will open again after the short 24 hours of Christmas Day.  Trust me I have years of experience watching Christmas shoppers.  The organised get better value and waste less than the last minute and frantic, “I better get it just in case!” types who are on the verge of resorting to booze and Valium to get them through the holiday stress.  It’s unhealthy to say the least.

When food planning your lists should be broken down into the things you can do well ahead of time and those that can only be sorted on Christmas week.  Obviously the latter list should be shorter.  You can also decide how much of this you want to do from scratch and how much can be bought in.  By thinking about it well in advance you can rationally assess if the time involved is going to be enjoyable and cost effective or a pain and not worth the trouble.  Cookery books and celebrity chefs will happily tell you that making your own mince meat or mayonnaise is simple, but sometimes it’s much easier just to buy it. Freezers are a great advantage.  There is no problem freezing things in November that will be eaten over Christmas.  And remember that basics such as stocks, soups, butter and even milk can be frozen.  The other thing I recommend is that you always keep batches of pastry in the freezer, either home made or shop bought.  You can run up a pie, a tart or a few sausage rolls in a hurry if necessary.  The other tip is to assess what you already have at home before you go shopping.  This requires a thorough look.  November is a good time to check your basic store cupboard supplies.  Have you enough flour and sugar?  What about chutneys and preserves?  You can make these and they will hold very well or buy some of the lovely Tipperary artisan ones that you will find easily enough.  A supply of rice and risotto rice is also useful.  Whipping up a turkey curry or a quick lunchtime risotto will no doubt impress a hungry crowd.  How about spices, condiments and dried foods – have they gone off, lost their flavour or dried up?  Check it out now and then you won’t a) buy things you already have or b) things you don’t need.

Order with order!  When it comes to suppliers just remember that they are human too.   Christmas is one of the busiest times of the year and mistakes can happen.  Clear lists are required.  Here are the suggested lists you might need; the butcher and/or deli, the fishmonger, greengrocer, alcohol supplier.  You might wish to combine some of these elements in the supermarket but create the lists separately anyway.  Ordering can be done in advance and you can also keep an eye on the budget.

Delegation is my final tip.  While some of us might strive for Martha Stewart perfection, leave it out at Christmas; it’s a time for family.  Give someone else the responsibility of the table setting.  Try the kids, they might surprise you and if nothing else they will certainly feel they’ve played a part in all your hard work.   For more recipes and Christmas tips visit www.jameswhelanbutchers.com or drop into the shop in the Oakville Shopping Centre with any queries whatsoever.  By planning ahead it really can be the most wonderful time of the year if not exactly perfect or easy.

I always welcome feedback pat@jwb.ie. Here is a fantastic recipe for risotto.

Leek & Bacon Risotto

Serves 4
Preparation: 10 mins – Cooking: 20 mins

Ingredients

• 15ml (1 tbsp) olive oil
• 8 rashers bacon
• 4 leeks, sliced
• 350g (12 oz) risotto (arborio) rice
• 200ml (6½ fl oz) white wine
• 800ml (1½ pint) hot vegetable stock
• grated parmesan, optional

Method

1. Heat the oil in the big pot and fry the bacon to your liking (just cooked or very crispy). Remove the bacon. When it has cooled, chop it into bite-sized pieces.
2. Add the leeks to the pot and fry for 2 minutes until starting to soften.
3. Stir in the rice and cook for 1 minute, stirring.
4. Add the wine and stock, and then bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 10-12 minutes until the rice is tender.
5. Remove the rice from the heat, add the bacon pieces, then stir in the parmesan if desired and some freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately.

Serving Suggestion

• Enjoy this plate of delight with a glass of white wine.

I have to say a big thank you to the very nice lady who recently sent me a book called The Nostalgic Cook Book.  Written by Bill Habets, it is a practical guide on why and how yesteryear’s recipes and methods can help solve many of today’s food linked problems.  This is not just a little book of old recipes as it gives simple information on why obesity is only a recent problem.  It also has a wonderful, easy to use, visual chart of fruits and vegetables that tells you when everything is in season; for that alone the book is worth having.  While this book is about cooking it got me thinking about the old ways of food production in general.  It struck me that while we have vastly improved the efficiency of how we make food these days, in some cases we have paid for the time saving in our acceptance of a poorer taste factor.  Is that really what we wanted to achieve?  The vintage way of things was a slower labour intensive process but one that usually resulted in a more nutritious and much tastier offering.

At this time of year we are all about Christmas food.  We all look forward to indulging in the fancy foodstuff that we stockpile for the festivities.  One of the main events is, of course, the Turkey.  Lengthy conversations will be had about the bird.  There will be newspaper articles and radio slots devoted to how to cook it, what size you might need and, of course, the annual debate about organic versus commercial.  These items appear each and every Christmas and, sometimes, I find myself rolling my eyes at the horse manure that is being pedalled as fact and information.

Here’s the thing.  When it comes to organic free range turkey most people will tell you that the turkeys were reared on farms where they had lots of open space to roam around by day and warm cosy sheds for shelter at night.  They will focus on the fact that their diet during the rearing process was carefully monitored and they were fed a specific organic grain that would create the best bird.  Listening to some organic Turkey farmers, their regimes appear just one step short of reading the little turkeys a bedtime story and providing a mug of cocoa before tucking them in for the night!  However, they conveniently forget to mention that the painstaking care is abandoned at the slaughterhouse door and, just like their commercially bred cousins, many free range organic turkeys are killed, plucked and packaged as quickly as all the others.  For the consumer this means that the turkey on your table had, perhaps, a better lifestyle when it was alive but won’t taste differently to a commercially bred bird.  In other words the increased price for the premium product you think you are buying, is really paying for the animal husbandry of it all and not the taste and quality of the meat.  That’s quite noble as long as you don’t think you are paying for a better taste factor. 

In the old days turkey breeders had distinct and necessary processes right up to the point of sale that were there to enhance the taste and quality of the meat; which, let’s face it, is really what it should be all about.  After giving the bird a stress free lifestyle with lots of space, warm shelter and good food the turkeys would be killed individually, then carefully and skilfully hand plucked and then left to ‘hang’ for several days.  This was a very important part of the taste development as it was during the hanging time that the natural enzymes would break down the muscle fibre and ultimately develop a sweet natural flavoursome tender meat when cooked. These days we tend to forget about the maturing process in our rush to get the product to market.  One of the things you will often hear is complaints that the turkey meat was too dry.  While the way you cook the bird is certainly a contributory factor in what appears on the table, some of the dryness might just be unavoidable due to the way the turkey was processed before you ever bought it.

While all these thoughts of how it ‘used to be done’ were rumbling around in my head, I heard of someone in Tipperary who was actually doing it the old fashioned way.  That’s why last Friday I went to see John Paul Crowe of Crowe’s Farm in Dundrum.    When we met he said, “Don’t get out of the car just follow me”.  Within minutes we were driving over hill and dale, down ever increasing small road after small road and up little boreens that eventually led to a spotless, picturesque farmyard complete with an idyllic farmhouse.  My young son has a plastic farm play set which could easily have been modelled on this very property.  Within a few seconds my wild turkey chase had come to an end and there in front of me, in an open seven acre field, were over one hundred bronze turkeys. It was a magnificent sight.  My sudden appearance obviously raised a certain curiosity and a loud musical chorus of ‘gobble, gobble’ filled the silence.  You couldn’t help but smile as one would start and the rest would join in.  I’m convinced they were talking about me.  I was careful not to mention the word ‘Christmas’ in their presence.

The field had several gates and I wondered if they every thought of making a break for it?  Apparently the field is so big that they don’t even go as far as the boundary.  Right beside their field was the yard where their straw filled sheds were.  We had a good look around.  John Paul told me that he got these as day old chicks back in July and ever since he has been letting them out every morning and tucking them up every evening.  (I did look for evidence of a story book but couldn’t see any.)  Fantastic Mr Fox is the main predator to be feared but fortunately he hadn’t come calling so far this year.I have convinced John Paul to try the slaughtering process and, sure enough, this year he is attempting to do it the old fashioned way.  They will be killed individually, hand plucked and hung for a number of days.  It is, without a doubt, a huge amount of work but I have no doubt that these traditional methods will enhance the taste and all that trouble will be worth it.  I am really excited about this and have secured some of these Free Range Organic Bronze Turkeys to sell in our shop, James Whelan Butchers in the Oakville Shopping Centre in Clonmel.  

Having seen it all up close and personal I am satisfied that these Bronze Turkeys have had a really good life and have been properly fed and cared for.  I am even more excited that the old methods have been adopted for the finish because ultimately that’s what creates the taste and isn’t that what it’s really all about?

Brandy Butter

Brandy Butter Recipe.

Into the medium bowl put the butter and sugar and lightly mix together.

Gradually combine in the brandy until it forms a creamy, smooth paste.

Your brandy butter is now ready to serve!

The silly season has officially commenced; well for me anyway.  Obviously this is our busiest time of the year; the annual November turkey sale being a good test of our mettle before the real rush in two or three week’s time.  It is also a period of frenetic ordering as the organised pull out notebooks and put their festive plans in motion.  It’s ridiculously busy and regular shots of caffeine are called for, but I love every second of it.  On top of that my involvement in the Tipperary Food Producers Network also kept me on my toes this week as we were busy sorting out the upcoming special Under The Arches Christmas Market day that’s planned for the 8^th of December in Clonmel.  I suggest you write the date down and stick it up on the fridge or somewhere that you can see it.  This is a Christmas event that you won’t want to miss.  Some of our finest indigenous food producers will be there, from the lovely Inch House Black Pudding, (who also carry a super range of celiac products as well, by the way) to the internationally acclaimed Crossogue Preserves.  In fact I might as well list them all as they each have something to offer; Cooleeny Cheese, The Cookie Jar, The Scullery, Red Nose Wine, Tasty Treats,  Crowe’s Farm and of course I’ll be there with James Whelan Butchers.   If the weather holds up I can guarantee a wonderful festive market that will sort out Christmas in one swoop.  Not only will you be able to stock your own larder from this treasure trove of quality foodstuffs but many of these products make great gifts.  I always find it very difficult to buy presents for people these days as everyone seems to have everything; but food gifts are always gratefully received.  With artisan food gifts you’re helping local businesses and, who knows, you might just treat someone to something that they’ve never tried before and there are plenty of unusual ‘talking point’ items.  Crossogue Preserves do some smashing jars like Blackcurrant and Guinness Coulis or Blackcurrant and Guinness Jam or how about Irish Whiskey Marmalade; full of festive deliciousness.  The Scullery has award winning Christmas puddings in the range and who could resist a box of giant American Cookies.  There’s plenty for the wine and cheese lovers and for the meat enthusiasts, myself and Crowe’s Farm will have plenty of choice.  It will be fantastic with plenty of tasting opportunities as well, so come early. 

There is one non food stand planned for the day which will be selling a new cook book entitled Food 4 Thought compiled by Breda O’Shaughnessy.  It’s being sold in aid of the Tipperary/Limerick/Clare Cystic Fibrosis charity that is currently trying to raise much needed funds to help build a new Adult Outpatients and Inpatients specialised unit for Cystic Fibrosis patients.  Obviously there is the charity benefit but aside from that it is a great all round cook book.  It’s an easy to handle soft paperback that’s stuffed with great recipes covering everything from starters, main courses and desserts to breads, cakes, sauces and even cocktails.  For anyone looking for a good all round cook book for their own kitchen or to give as a gift, this is ideal.  Along with some solid old favourites there are tasty new ideas in there such as Chicken Irish Mist, Rib Eye Steak with Soya and Ginger and a great recipe for Black Pudding with Red Onion Jam.  There are some lovely festive recipes also.  They will be available at the Under the Arches Market on the 8^th but we’re selling them in the shop all this week and remember all the proceeds go to the Cystic Fibrosis Charity.

Okay, I’ve teased you enough with all my other bits, so it’s time to discuss the absolutely delicious Turducken.  If you’ve never heard of it, don’t worry, I hadn’t either until very recently and yet we’ve been making and selling it for years.  Turducken is just the American and Canadian term used to describe a three bird roast; Turkey – Duck – Chicken!  A three bird roast is where you stuff a partially de-boned turkey with a de-boned duck and then stuff that with a de-boned chicken and finally, the piece de resistance, my special recipe stuffing.  I don’t mind admitting that it has taken me years but I have finally perfected the art of this great dish that will, I have no doubt, mercilessly seduce the taste buds and leave them screaming for more.   In this part of the world we usually roast or braise the three bird roast but I have heard of people barbecuing it although I’ve never tried cooking it that way myself.  In the southern States of the US Turducken is a very common dish at this time of year and is often used as an alternative to plain Turkey for Thanksgiving Day, which has just passed being the last Thursday in November.   In the UK Turducken is known as a Royal Roast or Roast Without Equal which is one of my favourite names, because that describes it very well indeed.   Of course you can use more than three birds for this dish.  Apparently the largest recorded nested bird roast is 17 birds, attributed to a royal feast in France in the early 19th century.  Your imagination and powers of visualisation are needed here to picture this.  It consisted of a bustard (that ‘u’ is not in error!) stuffed with a turkey, a goose, a pheasant, a chicken, a duck, a guinea fowl, a teal, a woodcock, a partridge, a plover, a lapwing, a quail, a thrush, a lark, an ortolan bunting and a garden warbler. The final bird is very small but large enough to hold just an olive.  It also suggests that, unlike modern multi-bird roasts, there was no stuffing or other packing placed in between the birds.  You couldn’t even attempt to make this Russian Doll of roasts today as some of the bird species are now endangered.

So there I was in the shop last Saturday when a woman with a lyrical American accent requested a Turducken.  While the term was relatively new to me I knew immediately that she wanted a three bird roast.  She had been to a dinner party the previous evening where one of my roasts was served and she said it was delicious.  However, when she asked the hostess during dinner where she had bought it, the hostess went into a long rigmarole as to how she had spent all the previous day preparing it from scratch.  Apparently her story was quite detailed and technical and therefore credible. Everyone was suitably impressed. However what she couldn’t have know was that while she was in the kitchen when everyone arrived her husband was talking with some of the men about the impending roast and mentioned that she had bought it from us!  One of those men was the husband of the lady now standing in the shop.  If you are going to tell fibs make sure the whole family is in on it as those ‘husbands’ have a knack of letting the cat out of the bag.  Anyway my American friend was delighted to be able to pop in and buy one as at €15.99 who could be bothered wasting a whole day in preparation and one roast will feed a family. They’re really tasty and great value. Last but by no means lease we are running a Christmas cookery course in conjuction with Jenny Flynn in the Park Hotel in Wed 9^th of Dec @ 8pm.  This promises to be a great night and tickets are available at the shop @ €30 each.  There are only limited places so hurry. 

Don’t forget the Under the Arches Market on the 8th. December and Christmas cookery course on the 9^th Dec. Stick these dates on the fridge. 

Cranberry Sauce Recipe

·

·

Ingredients

·                                 1 cup (200 g) sugar

·                                 1 cup (250 mL) water

·                                 4 cups (1 12-oz package) fresh or frozen cranberries

·                                 Optional Pecans, orange zest, raisins, currants, blueberries, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice.

Method

1 Wash and pick over cranberries. In a saucepan bring to a boil water and sugar, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add cranberries, return to a boil. Reduce heat, simmer for 10 minutes or until cranberries burst.

2 At this point you can add all number of optional ingredients. We typically mix in a half a cup of roughly chopped pecans with or without a few strips of orange zest. You can add a cup of raisins or currants. You can add up to a pint of fresh or frozen blueberries for added sweetness. Spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg or allspice can be added too.

3 Remove from heat. Cool completely at room temperature and then chill in refrigerator. Cranberry sauce will thicken as it cools.

Cranberry sauce base makes 2 1/4 cups.

Steak and kidney pudding is possibly one of the best known English dishes worldwide.   It is certainly the epitome of winter comfort food with its tasty dark juices, tender beef and rich melt in the mouth pastry.  Steak and kidney is also popular here in Ireland but we tend to create steak and kidney pies rather than puddings.  Also, more and more these days, you see restaurants leaving out the kidney and just offering ‘steak pie’.   While it is often very good, without the kidney and the suet pudding, we are moving farther and farther away from the original dish.   If you have only ever experienced a steak and kidney pie and enjoyed it, but have never tried a proper steamed steak and kidney pudding, then this week you are in for a treat.  The main differences between a pie and a pudding are that suet pastry is used in a pudding, it is cooked in a deep bowl rather than a shallow dish and it is steamed on the hob rather than baked in the oven.  Indeed it is treated very like a traditional Christmas pudding.

Steak and kidney pudding is very simple to make. The drawback is that it takes roughly four hours to steam so it is a dish that needs to be planned.  With busy working schedules it is possibly best left to the weekends or a day off.  It can also create quite a fog in the kitchen!  On the other hand you can totally ignore the element of fog and just concentrate on the lovely aromas it produces as it steams slowly.  On a cold and wet winter afternoon you can prepare the pudding and then sit back and relax as the heady scent of beef, onion and mushroom (depending on the recipe) fragrance the air and tempt your appetite with every flavorsome waft.  Personally I can put up with the steam because of the lovely smells it produces while cooking.

Steak and kidney pudding is generally thought of as a man’s dish.  While I know plenty of ladies who love it, I suppose its richness and the fact that it is best enjoyed with creamy, buttery mash makes it a rare destination for the weight conscious.  Admittedly if you were attempting the Pavarotti look regular steak and kidney puddings would get you there quite quickly but as a little indulgence every once and a while it’s harmless. (Go on, you know you’ll love it!)

One of my customers is a smashing lady, originally from Yorkshire in the North of England who has lived in Clonmel for many years having married a native.  While buying ox kidney and some chuck steak for a pudding once, she pointed out the differences between a traditional pudding and the pie version.  She assured me that once I had tried a proper steamed pudding I might never go back to a pie.  I argued that while she made it sound very nice it seemed like there was a lot more trouble to making a pudding than a pie!  I was instantly rebuked for such lazy nonsense without any actual evidence to support such a claim.  She challenged me to try it and even gave me her own recipe which had been handed down from her grandmother.  I was honored and felt I had to at least give it a try.  It was absolutely delicious.

For previous generations of women in England making suet pastry was only possible if a butcher provided the fat needed.  They would then take the fat, usually kidney fat, and finely grate it or chop it for use in the pastry.  While you can of course request your butcher to save some kidney fat for you, these days most people rely on Atora suet, readily available in most supermarkets.  When making the pastry the suet takes a little bit of extra kneading but it will be worth it for the very soft and easy to work with pastry that results.  The other tip I would offer is that you should only use ice cold water when making the pastry as you don’t want the suet to melt at this prep stage.  Once prepared, I suggest leaving it to rest in the fridge for about 20 to 30 minutes.  If you leave it for too long it will swell like bread dough.  Another interesting tip that my Yorkshire friend gave me is that once you have diced up the kidney, wrap the raw steak pieces around the raw kidney pieces before seasoning it and placing it in the bowl.  This definitely adds a little to the preparation work but if you have the time do it.  For the lid of the pudding you will need greaseproof paper, tin foil and some string so make sure they are handy before you start.

I particularly like this dish because most of the mess is made during the preparation and it is well cleaned up before you sit down to eat; you have at least four hours!  The only necessary side dish is plenty of buttery mash.  For this reason the washing up after the meal is minimal.  If you do it right all you should be left with is a few licked clean plates, an empty pudding bowl and wonderfully sated diners.

By the way Lena in our deli at James Whelan Butchers does an excellent steak and kidney pie which I could also recommend to you, it’s as close as there is to making your own. I welcome feedback any time by email to pat@jwb.ie

Pauline’s granny’s recipe for Steak and Kidney pudding

Cook: 4 hours

Ingredients

250g self-raising flour, plus a little extra
125g Atora shredded suet
Salt
Approx 4 tbsp cold water

For the filling:

1 large onion diced
1½ tbsp vegetable oil
2 large flat mushrooms, approx 200g
500 g chuck steak
125g Ox  kidney (Lamb’s kidney can also be used)
Approx 2 tbsp flour
Pepper
A generous pinch of mustard powder (Optional)
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme, optional
Approx 25g butter
350ml beef stock  

Method

Sift the flour into a mixing bowl, add the suet and a good pinch of salt. Mix, then add the water, a little at a time, to bind into a light, spongy pastry. Leave it to rest in the fridge for 20 minutes while you prepare everything else.

Finely chop the onion and leave to one side. Wipe the mushrooms and cut into chunky pieces.  

Trim away any fat and sinew from the steak and cut into kebab-size chunks or, if you are going to wrap the steak around the kidney pieces, cut it into 1 x1 x 3cm strips. Cut the kidney into slightly smaller pieces, discarding the white core.

Put the flour on a plate and add the salt and pepper and powdered mustard if using.  Roll the meat in the flour.

Halve the pastry and flour a work surface. Lavishly butter the pudding bowl. Set aside just over a quarter of the pastry for the lid. Roll the pastry into a circle to fit the basin with a 2cm overhang.

To fill make a layer of meat, then onion, then mushroom and keep repeating the layers until you reach the top.  (If you are time pressed then you can just mix all the filling ingredients together and put them in the bowl.)

Once filled, add sufficient stock to moisten but do not drench or cover the filling. Roll the lid to fit. Moisten the overhang, fit the lid and pinch and roll the two together to seal securely.

Centre pleat a large piece of greaseproof paper and then some tinfoil and place loosely over the top. Tie it securely, going round twice, with string under the rim of the basin, then loop a handle across the top of the pudding, allowing plenty of room for the pudding to expand — which it will.

Lift the pudding into a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Add sufficient boiling water to come two thirds of the way up the basin, fit the lid and boil for 4 hours. Check every hour or so and top up with more boiling water.

To serve, lift the pudding bowl out of the pot on to a plate. Remove the foil. If you are brave enough you can turn the pudding out onto a plate to create a visual ‘wow’ or you can just serve it straight from the pudding bowl.